A few years’ ago I came across a delightful book called Along the Enchanted Way. The author William Blacker spent some years living in the very rural Maramures region of Romania, almost untouched by Western society by dint of Communism and sheer remote location. This inspired a bout of Romania fever, which a few weeks’ ago I followed up with my second visit to the country.
I had found a photographic tour leader on Instagram (@vlad_brasov) and decided that this would be the best way to explore rural Romania. While I love taking photos and also exploring the photojournalism side of life, my Romanian isn’t so hot (though since my visit I can now say “chicken” and “cow” with some aplomb). It made sense to explore with a local photographer.
The Format
Vlad picked me up at 7.30am on the Saturday, just after the amazing sunrise over the hills. I had been a little bit nervous about meeting men off the Internet but, as soon as we met, I knew there was no call for worry. He immediately put me at ease with his kind and empathetic personality.
The idea was to drive to a village, walk a bit up some hills and meet various villagers along the way. I had no idea what to expect, really - would it feel normal or right to just knock on people’s doors and take their photos? Would we be expected to take tea? Should I take gifts?
We started with a visit to Ion, a lovely man who had been widowed a few weeks’ prior. With him and with all of the other villagers we met, it never felt forced or uncomfortable. Vlad visits many of these people regularly and has built up something of a relationship. And actually much of the visit has got nothing to do with photography at all. It’s about listening to what people have to say, building a rapport and asking questions. The actual photography comes at the end.
The Gear
I took the Fuji XT-3 and a variety of Canon portrait lenses with adaptors. Primarily I used the 85mm portrait lens. While this is a fantastic and favourite lens, it is harder to use on the Fuji body as there’s less control over aperture. I’m also getting to grips with the Fuji manual focusing system. Despite the low lighting conditions and wide apertures, I didn’t bother with tripods as they don’t lend themselves to natural shots and making villagers feel at home in their own houses!
Thoughts
In a rural area where much of the younger population has left to seek opportunity in the cities or overseas (Romania has the fifth largest emigrant population in the world), it’s clear that many elderly people can benefit from such ideas as this photography trip. While it’s the nature of farming life to keep active until the very late years, it’s still isolated as a way of life. Vlad’s visits provide a connection, a way of getting different items from towns and of boosting the local economy. We ate a meal at one couple’s farm, and Vlad bought honey at another. And, tellingly, nearly everyone opened up their stories. What better than to tell someone what’s on your mind when they’re not part of the village? It feels like such a valuable social service, in an area where I doubt there’s much access to mental health services and probably not much appetite for the stigma surrounding them.
This trip has reinforced an interest in photojournalism, and I’d love to explore that more over the coming months. It also reinforced the idea that more unites us as human beings than divides - and I returned home vowing to call my mother.
Getting There
I booked a Saturday and Sunday with Vlad, flying out to Bucharest late on Thursday night. While I had the intention of pacing the Bucharest streets with camera in hand, instead I opted to get the train from Bucharest Nord station - surprisingly easy and around 25 LEI from Bucharest to Brasov. From station to hotel it’s also possible to get Ubers, useful as the “normal” taxi drivers charged me more from Otopeni airport than it cost for my return Ryanair flight. On the way back, I booked an online taxi chaffeur from Brasov to Bucharest airport which was amazing value at around £15.
Brasov is a pleasant city with a relatively small historic centre. If its your first time here then it’s definitely worth checking out nearby Bran Castle (of Dracula infamy) and Sinaia Castle. Been there, done that though and that was not the purpose of the trip. This time it was to explore that wonderful countryside, below
More Info?
Check out Vlad’s website.
